About Cameras

Single Camera method:
Remember that objects in photo can't be moving.
For moving objects you'll need either a beam splitter lens or two cameras with simultaneous shutter release capability. (I'll tell you the inexpensive side of this aspect later, or contact me if you can't wait)

Take two photos with paralell lines of sight and foreground objects along a similar line as the subject of your photo. How do you get them paralell? shift your weight from one leg to the other, moving your upper body slightly, about eye spacing. Remember which photo is the left and right, Don't be overly worried about this you can figure it out with some careful observation of object placement.

Now display the photos side-by-side in either a photo album or on the dumb-puter and use a paralell viewer to see what you've taken. If you do your developing at a one hour photo place, such a walgreens, be aware that they still may be ripping customers off with the content of the Cd's by only putting jpegs on that CD and using jpegs to print your photos. Last year, in November, time they were providing tiff files which can go through a number of digital processes without too much quality loss. Such is not the case with jpegs.

Now for the details: Photo processing is somewhat straight forward but you may need to be real selective about you album. I found that photos taken with the camera on its side makes the viewing easier. Be sure to specify left and right on the developing envelop. More on all this later.

Dumb-puters present numerous challenges so i'll devote much of this page fo this method of preparation fo presentation. It is not too tough and what i'll be explaining is a simple way to do manual preperation using a common software tool, windows paint. Even with its defficiencies it's good for practice and development of you eye for detail.

An automated way to make 3D photos is with Stereo Photo Maker, it is real handy and it comes with the capability to make animated gifs called wiggle or wobble images. This is rapid switching between the left and right image in the same picture frame. Stereo Photo Maker has many useful features even if you are not doing 3D processing. One feature is batch resizing. I've been aware of some of its features since last year but just found out its wobble capability. So much more there too. in certain aspects, way beyond my current understanding, but that doesn't make it any less usefull. My complements to the developers, doubly so since it is freeware.

For the manual process, you can get started by downloading the two chosen photos into a folder with subfolders for the left and right image, keeping them seperate will avoide confusion later. Open each image in its own 'paint' window and size that window to take up half the screen. Then resize the image in each window, and here is where you need to start taking some careful traceable and undoable steps. Number 1, Resave that opened file with a new name, make that new name reflective of as much info as can be helpful for future reference. Try to keep it simple. When you save this file consider including some info about the resizing factor, and now for details on that aspect. Resizing can be done from the 'image' header. The dropdown menu contains numerous handly tool you'll want to use. Stretch/skew is the choice to make now. A sub-window should appear giving the option of hoizontal and vertical amounts in degrees. This is eal straight forward, so don't get intimidated. If you are woking with a 3mp image you'll need to take a lot reduction that a low resolution image such as 480x640 pixals. A reduction of 75% would be conveyed to the computer by the end result 25%. That is a lot of reduction, nearly thumbnail size. Go with whatever amount you can work with and get a good look at the subject while using half the computer screen. Maker the same reduction to the other photo. Save them with some reference to the amount of reduction.
Now if your shot taking was carefull to keep the camera at the same level and the shots paralell, you should have two images with objects which are almost lined up horizontally. If not use the scroll bar to move an image up or down until objects are level between the two shots. Now open a third 'Paint' window. Into this window you'll paste each of th two images once you've cropped out the content you are seeing in the two paint frames which you've already aligned. There are a number of annoying features in paint and if you know how to reset the defaults please tell me. One is the tool selected as default, The one used most often or initially is to paste items into the window, this cannot be done without selecting the upper right box in tools, the dotted square. You wil use that for two steps, copying in your image-if you don't use the 'open' tab in the file menu and cropping of your image, for pasting that box will need to be selected.

Paste the left image into that new window first, then expand the pasting area, whiteened area, to nearly full screen width. Annoyance number two is that tiny little dot used to expand the area. If there is a key combination to do this please tell me how to make it happen.... Into the expanded area you will put the right image, but lets step bak to the cropping. Select as much of the window as you can manage and still see what you are selecting, This will keep your images even and simplify the final adjustment made with the insertion of the right image into your third window. Once you paste that it into the window and slide it off the other image into the right side of the frame you'll want to keep it highlighted with the dotted line until you are done with a final adjustment vertically and horizontally. Make the final adjustment before you go after the save button cause then you loose adjustment capability. I use a piece of paper as a square from the side of the screen across the central subject of the images. Here is where developing an eye for detailgets a workout and here also is where you use your viewer for the final time in preparing the image. The first time was when you were working with side-by-side windows. Once the images are aligned and comfotable to view save as you finished image in one of several file types. Tiffs or bitmaps to retain image details for printing and jpeg for tansmission across the net.

If you have questions or suggestions or help with annoyances send me a note

Be sure to check out what got me started with 3D photography at:

As for this page, it will get all the typos and stucture issues resolved as time permits. Just had to get this down to get you started. 3dzp